Alocasia Clypeolata

Alocasia Clypeolata

History of Alocasia Clypeolata

Alocasia clypeolata is a flowering plant of the Araceae family, typically grown for its distinctive 'elephant ear' foliage. Native to the Philippines, it makes an excellent houseplant and will tolerate a wide range of growing conditions. Alocasia comes from the Greek 'a' meaning without and 'Colocasia' the name of a closely allied genus, from which it was separated. Clypeolata means 'shield shaped' and refers to the shield shaped leaves.

Alocasia clypeolata has beautiful green waxy leaves with darker veining and light green undersides. The leaves are held on light green petioles. The leaves can grow to up to 60cm in length in a mature specimen.

These leaves emerge from an underground corm. A corm is the swollen base of a stem axis enclosed by dry scale-like leaves that form a protective shell. The Alocasia clypeolata inflorescence consists of an erect spadix enclosed in a green, boat-shaped spathe. The corn-line spadix is covered in small flowers.

Alocasia Clypeolata - Nursery Kebun Bandar

Sample Picture of Alocasia Clypeolata

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How to Care for Alocasia Clypeolata

1. Light - Alocasia clypeolata wants bright, indirect sunlight. It can tolerate some direct light but avoid hot midday sun or the leaves will scorch.

2. Soil - Use a well draining soil mix, amended with more moisture retentive potting mix than for most Aroids and water thoroughly, allowing excess to drain. Alocasia do like more constant moisture than most Aroids but a waterlogged soil will lead to root rot.

3. Temperature - Alocasia are unusually sensitive to low temperatures in the home. With low light and low temperatures near windows they can enter a dormancy, so it is best to avoid placing them in an unheated room or near to a cold window. Dormancy will involve the plant dropping all its leaves and existing as an underground corm. If you push your finger down into the soil and feel the underground corm it should feel firm and not squishy. If the plant enters dormancy happens you can force the plant out of dormancy. This is a similar process to propagating Alocasia from a Bulbil.

4. Water - Keep moist over the warm weather, on the dryer side but not soggy or waterlogged. Reduce watering in the cold weather and check on soil frequently.

5. Fertilizer - Feed with slow-release fertilizer once every six months (refers to packaging for dosage). In the warm weather, feed fortnightly with a liquid fertilizer.

Alocasia Clypeolata - Nursery Kebun Bandar

Sample Picture  of Alocasia Clypeolata

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Common Issues

Dropping leaves after bringing the plant home

Alocasia are a temperamental genus of plants. Moving them from the hot, humid and ideal conditions of a nursery to your dim and dry home can be stressful, and the plant will respond by dropping old leaves to preserve resources. After a few weeks the plant should stabilise at between three and five leaves at any one time.

Yellowing/floppy leaves

Unlike many other plants, yellowing and dying leaves on Alocasia isn't a sure sign that there are issues. Alocasia only hold a certain number of leaves at any one time, dependent on the health and size of the root system. If your Alocasia Clypeolata produces a new leaf at the same time as losing the oldest or outmost leaf on the corm then this is natural and nothing to worry about.

Overwatering

If the soil is staying moist for more than two weeks between watering, or the soil feels soggy or very wet after a week then consider repotting the plant into a smaller container: the roots staying wet for too long will lead to root rot and a quick decline in the plant's health. When repotting use a mix that drains well but retains some moisture.

Sun damage

A. clypeolata cannot take direct sun, except in the early mornings or late evenings. Make sure it is situated away from parts of the home that get direct, hot midday sun.

Alocasia Clypeolata - Nursery Kebun Bandar

Sample Picture  of Alocasia Clypeolata

Click Here To Buy >>>Buy Alocasia Clypeolata<<<


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